We awoke early doors to a shower of rain. However by the time I managed to pry at least one eye open it had stopped and the sun was shining brightly. We finally set off about 0915, once again heading north.
A lot of these old redundant pumping stations have been sold off and are making great private homes. They seem to be a lot like barn conversions with their high ceilings and big double doors for the machinery to get in and out. This one seems to still have the water header tank for the steam pump or to prime the pumps.
The NW'ly wind made it quite cool down the long reaches and with the large clouds hiding the sun didn't help. We were soon at the railway bridge which was just before our turning off the Great Ouse.
The junction with the River Wissey doesn't look very much but we are hoping that it is worth the look. It flows for about 30 miles. It actually used to flow into the Wash via Wisbech before all the drainage work was done. It is the river that gave Wisbech its name.
The river to Hilgay is quite narrow but there are plenty of trees and quite good views. The marked water tap here is well hidden by the sign. (It is by the sign). A few years ago C&RT replaced many water points with those tin plate structures with padlocks due to some water regulation about back pressure and syphon etc etc. This one is just a standpipe on the end of a plastic pipe! George Manby is credited with inventing the rocket line thrower. He was born in Denver but lived here in Hilgay and it was after witnessing shipwrecks when no assistance could be given despite being close inshore that he experimented with a rocket that would carry a rope out to the ship. He tested it by shooting it over Hilgay Church. Now every ship in the world has to have four of the modern equivalent.
After Hilgay the river widens out with even better views. It was dramatic seeing the dark trees been quickly brightened by the sun as the clouds whipped across the sky.
It is really noticeable the number of trees in this area and it does change the character of the river.
The Sugar beet processing factory, like the cathedral at Ely can be seen for miles around. Wissington plant is the largest sugar refinery in Europe and was first erected in 1925. There was no roads to the factory then and an eighteen mile light railway was constructed to bring beets from the areas farms. Three tugs and twelve steel barges were also employed taking the finished product to Kings Lynn and returning with coal for the plant. In WWII it was taken over by the Ministry of Agriculture and POW's improved the railway and also added road links to the plant. The light railway only finally closed in 1982. Lorries bring the beets to the factory from around 50 miles radius. On the left can be seen the country's first bioethanol power plants built in 2007 using the waste from the plant. The excess heat from this plant is used to heat glass houses nearby that produced 70 million tomatoes a year. In 2017 it seems that tomatoes were given up for growing medicinal cannabis. That explains the 'funny smell'.
After the sugar plant you come to a wide, that matches Tixall, but with nowhere to moor.
You have to keep your eyes open as there are some good bends and fallen trees. However the river remains deep and weed free and a delight to travel up/down.
Not the most picturesque aqueduct on the canal and river system but is carrying the River Wissey over the cut off channel. This water way was suggested by Vermuyden in 1639 and again by John Renniw in 1810, but it wasn't until the massive floods in the ares in 1947 that work started in 1954. Later is was realised that engineering could make the water flow the opposite direction and enable water to be pumped from it into reservoirs to provide drinking water for Essex. This work was completed in 1971.
In normal times this sluice gate on the River Wissey is open to allow the water to follow its normal course. It flood the water is diverted down the Cut Off Channel by closing that one and opening the other one in the picture. It empties into the Wash at Kings Lynn.
The terminus of the navigable river is a caravan park by the A314 road bridge at Stoke Ferry. Once moored we went for a walk into the village. It was an eye opening experience as the architecture of the village is really good. The town appears in the Domesday Book and was granted it's first charter in 1239. In 1882 a privately owned railway branch line was constructed through to Stoke Ferry as its terminus. It was part of the Great Eastern Railway Co. It closed in the 1960's like so many others. The station buildings have survived and seem to be ready for development finally. They seem in good condition and will make a great project.
The town really prospered when the wool trade was at its height and the inland port was at it's busiest between 1750 and 1880 and some magnificent buildings were built. The High Street was given conservation status.
The Old Chemists shop had this above the door still. In the 1960's a local grain merchant failed is getting planning permission for silos and a mill outside the village. He therefore bought up property in the village and built it there. It provided employment but over the years has caused a blight with the dust and traffic etc. The main road used to lead through the village but a bypass has relieved that, but the lorries for the mill still must pass through. It is a chicken meal factory making about 7500 tonnes a week. The village are desperate to have it moved but the battle is ongoing. It is owned by a British Indian family that also now own Bernard Matthews, the turkey company!
The Church has been reconsecrated and was going to be used for a recycling yard. However it was bought by a local, Kit Hesketh Harvey, the musical performer, composer, screen writer and actor. It is now being used as an art gallery and is open to the public. All the artists are local and the work is very good. We bought so very nice cards.
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