Dawdling up the Derwent.

After passing up the lock, or rather down, as the level of the Derwent was about 2' lower than the tidal level in the Ouse, we were directed to the floating pontoon that was out of sight round the corner. Once moored up we walked back to the control room and signed the form and paid our £12 for the certificate that basically says that you will not discharge sewage into the river. We were soon back to the boat after our chat with Rob at the barrage and after a bite to eat we went for a walk into the village to find a postbox and a pub.

The floating pontoon at Barmby the next morning once we had left as the camera battery was flat last night. There is room for two at a squeeze. We set off about 1000 when a pair of boats turned up at just after 0900 from Selby. I had expected them in the afternoon. One carried on up the river after stopping to pay for their certificate, and the other waited for a day's rest!.

The River Derwent had been navigable since Roman times and in 1702 an Act of Parliament  was passed to provide for improvements for fifty miles up from the River Ouse to the market town of Malton. With the coming of the Railways the Navigation was purchased by the North East Railway and was badly neglected. The right of navigation was rescinded in 1935 but a long battle has been fought for the right to travel to Stamford Bridge. This involved the Courts and the Law Lords in 1991. It seems that Yorkshire Water, who extract water from the river, along with landowners and environmentalists want to deny access, bu the local councils and tourist boards would like to open it. This is also complicated as the lock at Sutton are owned by the Yorkshire Wildlife Trust and the weir by the Environmental Agency and neither will do anything until the other does as they would be each spending money that they don't wish to spend. I'm not sure how long the navigation has been closed beyond the lock at Sutton but after 2008. This is the second Loftsome Bridge. The first was a wooden design that had a swing section to allow the passage of vessels that was built in 1804 and replaced a ferry. The bridge was a toll bridge to pay for the maintenance. This remained in place until the early 1930's when the Hull - Selby A63 road was upgraded.

This cast iron bridge carries the Hull and Selby Railway over the Derwent. The line opened in 1840 and there was a station at Wressle, close by, in 1843.

Just past the railway bridge is Wressle Castle. (In fact you can just see it n the first photo). The building was never a defensive castle but a house of great stature that was built for the great Yorkshire landowners, the Percy family, in the 1390's. All that is left is one side of the building that had four ranges and four towers round a quadrangle in the centre. In 1403 Thomas Percy was beheaded by Henry IV for rebelling against him and he took control of Wressle. By 1471 it was returned to the Percy's until 1537 when it was again taken for the Crown following the Percy's participation in the Pligrimage of Grace following the dissolution of the Monasteries. Henry VIII visited the place three times in 1541. The other three wings were demolished during the Civil War and the remaining wing was devastated by fire in 1796. The site is private and not open to the public.

The views over the flood bank are not great but there is much to keep the interest with the winding river and trees with trapped debris in roots further restricting the width in places.

At Breighton there is a long line of moorings for small cruisers. The pub is called the Breighton Ferry to celebrate the ferry that survived here until the 1930's. Near the village is the airfield where the Real Airplane Company show historic aircraft and have held airshows.  There are no real moorings but you may be able to land on a vacant pontoon and report to the pub.

This is the former bridge for the York and North Midland Railway that was built in 1848. The line connected Driffield to Selby. Bubwith was know as a teasel growing centre to provide for the teasing or combing of wool in the West Yorkshire Mills.

One of the few buildings that gets close to the river are here at Bubwith with a lovely house and gardens overlooking the river and flood plain hard up to the large All Saints Church that was Norman in Origin with parts dating back to about 1200.

Bubwith Bridge replaced a very precarious bridge in 1798 and was a toll bridge until 1936. 10d for twenty Oxen would have caused a bit of a jam I'm thinking. Reading about Bubwith has made me think that I will return there one day as it sounds lovely. There are no obvious places to moor on the river section but there may be rough moorings to be had, but again I'm not sure if it is legal!

The river meanders around with very narrow tree lined parts that makes you concentrate. The bottom never seemed too close to the top and there never seemed to be a problem with weed either.

In other parts, as you pass through sections of the Lower Derwent Valley Nature Reserve the flood banks spread out and you can see more. The Nature Reserve is managed traditionally where the ground nesting birds have reared their young and the wild flowers have set seed the hay crop is taken. In winter the ings are managed by drains into the river and the land then becomes a haven for over 40,000 over wintering birds. Just another reason to come back.

Luckily there is only one 'tributary' of the Derwent, The Pocklington Canal, as I didn't see any indication that this was the turn to the right. Helen says there was some sort of a sign. We had heard that there was another boat ahead of us somewhere and this may well be it rough moored just in the junction.

The feeling that we had gone the wrong way was further enhanced as the cut seemed to get narrower and more shallow. I wondered if we would find a lock at all!

But round another bend there it was. There was even another boat just going up in it. It was the second boat that had arrived at Barmby this morning and had carried on about an hour ahead of us. The lock landings are short but the lock was easily worked with padlocks on opened by the C&RT key. The rise was about 4 ft. The lock was plenty long enough for our almost 59' length plus fenders. 

So that was another river navigation traveled. It is just a shame that we aren't able to get to Stamford Bridge. It was a feeling like on the Driffield Navigation, that we haven't really completed it. However unlike the Driffield navigation, which entails a trip down the Humber, there is much more likelihood of us returning if it ever does re-open.

Barmby By 'Eck!

We had been told by VTS Humber when we left Old Harbour at Hull that a vessel would be leaving Howdendyke, and this was repeated when we talked with Goole Docks. Howdendyke is only about three miles further up river and there are three private wharves there. Between the two places though is the Skelton Railway Bridge. After passing Goole we slowed down as there was no real need to get there too early and the later, the less strong would be the current.

Listening on the VHF radio we could hear that the vessel had left Howdendyke wharf and was heading down river. As we could see the railway bridge was already open waiting for her. The bridge was built and esigned by the North Eastern Railway Co as they wanted a new route from South Yorkshire to Hull. The swinging section gives a gap of about 30m for the passage of ships and was hydarulically operated and could fully open in 50 secs. It was opened in 1869. The bridge is built on a bend in the river and the current does not set right through the bridge. If you are there too early the current is very strong and makes life difficult. There has been several strikes by ships that have caused damage and in 1973 one of the fixed spans was brought down by a ship. After a further collision in 1976 British Rail were trying to close the bridge to save the cost of repairs but in 1987 it was Grade II ,listed. Once again in 1988 one of the fixed piers was pushed out of true by a collision. However in 2009 a £6 million renovation started and it is good for a long time yet.

The bridge has to be swung in line with the railway timetable and the tides. Not knowing which opening the 'Fenn Courage' would take I was keeping out of the way. He then called and said I could pass over to the bank ahead of him so we dived down out of the way as he approached.

We passed through one span as he was pushing through the other side. there didn't seem much room to us. He approached at a slow speed and once lined up gave full ahead to ensure he had full steering.

The boat that had left Ocean Lock after we had passed 'Ocean Spirit' had caught us up at this point. He asked if the bridge could be left open for him and they did. At High water there is 15 foot clearance so no need for us to worry. I don't suppose that it is very often these days that the bridge master has three vessel pass through at the same time.

Here are two of the Howdendyke warves. In my day it seemed to mainly starch that was brought here and looking at the grabs as we passed it is still maybe a cargo that they handle. 

After rounding Hook Ness, just past the jetties, and passing Howdendyke Island we saw the M62 motorway bridge. This is part of the Transpennine route that also links Ireland with the continent via Hull and Immingham docks. It was given the go ahead in 1966 and was finally opened in 1976. It is of haunched girder design apparently.

Before the motorway bridge was built all traffic had to cross this two, rather than six, lane bridge at Boothferry Bridge. This was the first road bridge crossing the Ouse to allow access between the north and south banks of the Humber. Otherwise the paddle ferries on the lower river had to be used. There was a ferry here previously to the bridge being built in 1929. 

I was alerted to the presence of the floating corpse of this cow from quite a distance before we passed it. I have seen cows sheep and pigs in the river before now, as well as live porpoise and seals.

As we passed under the bridge master came out for a wave. It must have to be manned around the times of high water. I don't suppose he gets too many calls to open.

Here you can see thet both bridges are quite busy. the local traffic using the Boothferry bridge means there are still ofetn delays crossing.

Here is the conluence of the Ouse and Aire. At this point the Aire isn't navigable but we will rejoin it to reach Knottingly from Selby later on our trip. It looks somewhat like a French scene just here.

Drax Power Station dominates the area. It nis the biggest in the UK in terms of generating output and the second largest in Europe. (The bigger one is in Germany). In 1969 the massive Selby Coalfield was 'discovered' and this led to the building of power statitons in the area. Drax was started in 1973 and was first generating in 1975. It is now able to burn coal, pet coke and 7.5 million tonnes of biomass that it imports from the USA and Canada in the form of pellets. It produces 7% of the UK's energy needs.

Part of the plans for the use of biomass and an experimental Carbon capture ans storage scheme was to import using water transport and so a new jetty was built. I am not aware that any of the biomass is transported by water, yet that is.

We arrived at the Barmby barrage after an hour and a half trip making us back to our 6.7 kts. average speed again. The weir/barrage is to the right of the control cabin and the lock entrance is to the left, behind the piled jetty. This was just when the battery on the camera gave up then ghost so I will have to hope to get some good photos of the lock when we come back down. There was still quite a run of current when we had turned. The lock keeper had opened the lock and turned the green light on for us so we just entered. There is quite a backwash from the concrete wall you can see in the picture and acts like a bow thruster pushing you to st'bd as you enter. It means you can get much closer to it than you think!

Going to Goole.

High water at Barmby barrage was to be around 1730 and we had passed the Apex Light at Trent Falls at 1415 so we had three hours to get there before the High Water and it was about 20 miles. No problem.

Blacktoft Jetty is a place of refuge for vessels when unable to proceed further due to failing tides or other reasons. If the ship is running late for some reason it may not reach Goole before the tide starts falling. As each shipper wants the ship to carry as much cargo as possible they are loaded to a draft which allows for the rise of the tide plus an under keel clearance of 0.2 mts for a daylight passage and 0.3 for night time. If the tide starts to fall then you will run out of water before you get there so as the water here is deep enough to stay afloat at low water it is safer to stop here, and similarly on the way outward. Always a tough call to make. The jetty was built by the Aire and Calder Company between 1873 and 1881. There was a jetty master who lived in a nearby house. If we moored there we would be charged.

The next point of interest is the lighthouse at Whitgift. It was built by the Aire and Calder Co. as a navigational mark and is still used as such today. It has a steady red light in it, and I'm unsure why they would have gone to the great expense to build as structure such as this

Also in the village of Whitgift is the church of Mary Magdalene that dates from 1304, replacing an even older building. It is Grade I listedIf you look closely you will see that the clock has a Roman numeral XIII instead of an XII! I have heard that it was because a local man was to be hung at midday so there was no midday! I also heard that as there was a pub next door and no 12 it never had to close!! Probably it was just somebody wasn't very good at Roman numerals.

The view to the north west along Reedness Reach was quite pretty in the still air. The Reedness red beacon is a splash of colour in a sea of greys, blues and green.

Looking back at the village of Whitgift you can see that it sits below the level of the flood wall. All these villages were subject to frequent flooding until fairly recent times.

There are very few roads in the area and no bridges before Goole, but the farm land is very productive and there are many halls that were the 'big houses' of the rich land owners. Whitgift Hall was one and here at Saltmarshe is another. The Saltmarshe area was given to the Saltmarshe family after the Norman Conquest and they lived there continually until the early 1970's when the last Saltmarshe died. The Hall was built between 1825 and 28 for £4000. When I used to come up and down here the then owners were often to be seen sat on a bench by this light and would raise a glass of something when we passed. You always seemed to be set on to these stones too, so I kept well away from them today.

As we looked to the south west down Swinefleet Reach the numerous wind turbines seemed very large, but were not making much electricity today.

A feature of the Ouse to Goole are the reaches at Yokefleet and Swinefleet. In these areas the main current swings from one bank to the other in a fairly straight length. This means that there is more of a build up of sediment as the current slows. They were sounded daily (except Sunday) when I was a pilot, but I'm not sure how often it is done these days. There are two routes to pass from one side to the other. One is usually a little deeper than the other so if two vessels meet at the his point the deeper one gets the deeper water. To ensure that you are in the right place ar these leading boards. When the triangle is in line with the square you are on the right line. Obviously you have to allow for the current setting you sideways too.. In my day it was obviously redundant at night as you couldn't see them!! However you learned to look for a gap in the trees silhouette, or some thing similar. There was a lady in this reach that was paid to keep her porch light on to assist. I notice now that the leading boards have little lights on now, taking all the 'fun' out of it now!

At Saltmarshe Jetty there is the tide board and you can see it is reading just under 3.2 mts of water, so basically we have carried the tide up with us as it is almost the same reading as when we passed under the Humber Bridge. The 20 sign is not the speed limit but the No. of the light beacon. It is here that you have to report to Goole Docks so that they can tell you of any movements around the locks. In past times I would now be slowing down and getting ready for Goole Bight which is a 90deg. turn in the river. There is a ness on the inside of the bend and the current pushes you onto the bank on the outside if you go too slowly, or too close. No problems today, and no out bound ships, yet.

Safely round Goole Bight and looking down the reach towards Goole and the docks. It has taken us just an hour so the equivalent of 10 knots speed.

In the centre of the picture the concrete buttress separates the Dutch River, to the left from the entrance to Ocean Lock and the Dock complex to the right. It was built in 1635 as a way of draining the surround land that the River Don regularly flooded from it many entrances. It had been navigable for those brave enough and in the 1990's a factory about half a mile form this entrance and through a swing bridge reopened. You had to back dwon from here, through the bridge. One ship got stuck in the bridge hole and so cut off Old Goole and the villages to the eats for weeks as the alternative route is many miles round. Ocean Lock is the most modern lock, built in the 1930's I seem to remember and is the largest lock. It can be used at no cost by pleasure boaters between certain hours and you can just see a cruiser in the lock waiting to pen down to head up towards York.

A little past Ocean Lock is Ouse Lock that is no longer used and you can see has a build up of mud at it's entrance. Victoria lock is less wide than Ocean lock but it does cut out a few corners of the dock sytem for some moorings so is a better bet for some vessels and is still in use.

We have now left Goole behind and are heading further up the Ouse down Sandhall Reach and heading on to new ground for me, well in a  mile or two anyway. But that will be in another blog.

Heading up the Humber.

As we clear Central dry dock, now reconfigured to an open air performance space, we are looking at the slope down to the Humber called the Horsewash where horses we brought for a paddle. As it dries out it has also been used by boats to fix problems without recourse to dry docks. The pier extends into the Humber and was the embarkation point for the Humber Ferry to New Holland on the Lincolnshire side. To the right of the flags you can see a brass sculpture on a basalt plinth. This is the 'Voyager' sculpture by Icelandic artist Steinunn Thorarinsdottir and completed in 2006. It looks at to sea along the route that traders and fisherman have passed for hundreds and hundreds of years. In the village of Vik on the south coast of Iceland is a similar statute called 'For', which looks out to towards Hull. The links between Iceland and Hull are extremely long and despite the Cod Wars are still very strong.

When we popped out of Old Harbour into the Humber we had been expecting a slight easterly wind so we a little put out to see a breeze from the west and a bit of a slop on. Still, it wasn't bad at all and we were soon up to full speed. Here we are passing Hessle Haven. There was a big ship building yard to the right, Scarrs, right up until the 1990's. When that closed a company started using the Haven to berth ships. There are several 'mud' berths like this on the Humber that completely dry out at low water. The fun is aiming the ship at the right place when the tide is slack and running it up the beach as far as you can. Not quite as easy as it sound, but I did have a ship into here.

Once approaching the Humber Bridge the wind had shifted round to the east and all but died away. I now had to make the decision as to which route to take back to the Trent Falls.

Passing under the Humber Bridge you change VHF channels. VTS then gives the gauge reading for the bridge and tells me of any likely traffic we will encounter. They told me of a vessel leaving Howdendyke later and there was 3.5 mt on the Bridge tide gauge. I then decided that we would head up the smaller channel that runs up the north bank, or Yorkshire side as the barges call it. The Harbout Authority have to mark the deepest water with the buoys but there is always some sort of a channel to the north and for us with nearly 3 mts under us there would be no problem, and it would give us a different view of the estuary.

Just west of the Humber Bridge there is an area called Little Switzerland and is a nature reserve. It gets its name from the cliffs that enclose part of the reserve. this we foremed by quarrying of the chalk of the Yorkshire Wolds here. The chalk rock was crushed down to whiting at the Black Mill above. It was unique in the area as it had 5 sails. Keels and sloops were loaded on the foreshore just under where the bridge is today.

No apologies for yet another photo of the wonderful Humber bridge. I do hope that they eventually do build the glass lift to pass up the outside of a tower to a viewing platform as it would be spectacular.

I seem to be dressed up for an arctic expedition, but I think it was cool when the wind was blowing and I slowly started  taking layers off as we proceeded up the Humber.

The Yorkshire side channel has the advantage of running very close to the bank so we were lucky to see a friend out walking her dog who had come to see us and give us a wave as we passed North Ferriby.

As you can see it was almost flat calm with just our wake bothering the surface of the water. There were no other boats moving so it was  serene trip feeling very lucky with the weather. A rising tide also gives you a sense of security.

As we passed Brough Haven we could just see the entrance to the Haven. (The small yellow buoy marks the start of the channel). It is here, half way round the Whitton Channel that we rejoin the shipping route. I could read the tide board at Brough and it was 3.2 mts. I reckon we should just about maintain that height as although the tide is coming in, we are actually travelling 'up hill'!

This light float had the dummy owls on the hand rails, to scare off birds I assume, and the decks did look nice and clean. However when we passed others with no owls strapped down, the decks looked equally as clean. At the after you can see a round float that has a light chain coiled down on it. This  was to provide a marker in case the float was sunk in a collision with a ship etc.

With the higher revs of the river transit and consequently the higher noise levels, Macy the Cat didn't really like it. However she very quickly settled down on her 'throne' and surveyed the changing scene as we sped past.

We were soon at the Apex light at Trent Falls. It had taken us 2.25 hours to get here from Hull at an average speed of 6.7 kts. The northern route had cut a little bit off the distance but at the loss of the help of the main surge of the flood tide driving us along. I was still glad we had taken the option as we had seen both routes and can really say we had now 'done' the Humber. We both had a sense of achievement, and somehow I don't think I will be able to talk Helen in to coming this way again. However with a little planning is is easily do-able for an adventurous boater, some good weather and great timing.